Icelandic Music

Icelandic Music

Music has always been an integral part of Icelandic life. From the unique chanting sounds of Viking rhymes to the merry notes of a happy horse rider, music and song have filled the air for centuries. The deep national appreciation for tuneful rhythms is reflected in the number of music schools in the country. Even the smallest village will have someone teaching children to play a musical instrument. Choirs are popular as a pastime and there is most likely a recorder or guitar somewhere in every house. Given the exposure to this art form, it is not surprising that Iceland is a nation of music lovers and music makers. A song is a means by which one reveals the heart‘s desire and Icelanders have embraced this medium of expression with a passion.

Today this tiny population hosts several music festivals a year, boasts a number of international stars and has record companies promoting local artists on the international scene. Smekkleysa created by the 80‘s band Sykurmolarnir (The Sugarcubes) is the pioneer company that has promoted Icelandic talent both here and overseas since Björk’s rise to fame. 12 Tónar is another record company which has had international success with Mugison and Retro Stefson. While the music scene is vibrant and engaging, the market here is small scale, so many talented musicians leave the island and invariably make it big elsewhere.

Björk was the pioneer who exposed Icelandic talent internationally and since then there have been many popular bands that have risen to fame on a world-wide scale, such as Sigur Rós, Of Monsters and Men, Gus Gus, Ásgeir Trausti and Kaleo, to name a few.

Many an Icelandic musician has been heard on the soundtrack of blockbuster movies: Emiliana Torrini sings ‘Gollum’s Song’ in The Lord of the Rings and Of Monsters and Men have ‘Dirty Paws‘ in The Secret Life of Walter Mitty and Sigur Rós is heard in The Game of Thrones.

These names are all familiar to international visitors but local talent is unending as various competitions such as Battle of the Bands (Músiktilraunir) or Iceland Got Talent reveal. A new rising star and local celebrity, Glowie, shot to fame after winning such a talent contest and has just been awarded a recording contract with Columbia.

Stones of Iceland. Photo by Olga

Despite all these familiar names, much Icelandic talent is still woven intothe national fabric. Páll Óskar, Bubbi Morthens, Andrea Gylfadóttir, Jóhanna Guðrún, Lay Low and Björgvin Halldórsson are just a few of the big names Icelanders have been listening and dancing to for years. The raw talent of Iceland is discovered at music festivals dotted around the country all year round. Major festivals featuring international stars are concentrated in Reykjvaik and include Secret Solstice, Icelandic Airwaves and Sónar. If you want to hear home beats, go to a village 2here nature plays a huge role in the acoustics of outdoor festivals. Aldrei fórég suður in the west fjords is a popular free festival held over Easter. This festival is a celebration of Icelandic music, Icelandic style where locals and radio heroes rock away for free.

Over on the east coast Bræðslan is a festival celebrating Icelandic country, folk and indy music with an artsy feel in a spectacular setting. Further east, there is an indoor festival of hard core rock, heavy metal and punk, called Eistnaflug, which goes on for four days. (go to pg. 234 for list of festivals in Iceland).

A true friend whom you trust well and wish for his good will: Go to him often exchange gifts and keep company. (From Hávamál Eddaic poems (AD 700-900).

Traditional Icelandic Food and Beer

Traditional Icelandic Food and Beer

Traditional Icelandic food was born out of necessity dictated by weather and circumstances. The preservation of food was a matter of survival over the winter months when meat and fish were scarce. Housewives used various methods to preserve as much food as possible. Meat was smoked, salted, pickled or put in whey for 3 – 4 months, giving it a very specific sour taste. Fish was dried, hanged, salted, smoked or allowed to cure for some time. Almost everything from the animal was used. A few examples of the “delicacies” made from Icelandic sheep are blood and liver pudding, singed sheep heads, smoked lamb and ram testicles! If you would like to taste some of these special treats, try Café Loki near the Hallgrímskirkja Cathedral. It is also possible to buy some delicacies in a nearby grocery store. Try rye pancakes (flatkaka), sliced smoked lamb (hangikjöt) and some butter to make a tasty snack.

Smoked salmon (lax) on rye bread (rúgbrauð) is also popular. Other bread toppings include marinated herring, rolled sausage and lamb pâtés.

When going on a camping trip or just driving in the countryside, take some dried fish (harðfiskur) with you from the nearest service station. It is the perfect lightweight snack, which most Icelanders pack when going on a picnic or hike. Don‘t let the smell put you off. Most of the above foods can be found in grocery stores and at the airport duty free stores.

Beer and Brennivín from Iceland

Even though beer was banned in Iceland until 1989, the country has several local breweries that brew native beer brands. The main brands are Egils (Gull), from the Egill Skallagrímsson brewery, and Viking (Gylltur, Lager and Lite), brewed by Vífilfell, who also offer the Thule beer. Brewed from the purest water in the world, Icelandic beer is a good choice in today’s varied beer culture. Visitors to the guestroom at the oldest brewery in Iceland have the opportunity to experience a new and innovative way to get to know the Icelanders and their history. The tour, “Taste the Saga” offered by Iceland Excursions (AH150), takes the guests through Icelandic drinking culture and age old beer traditions come to life.

The tour, which is operated on Fri.- Sat. at 6pm, is fairly inexpensive and includes transportation, beverages and snacks.

Sharp Heights. Photo by Olga

Brennivín, the Icelandic signature alcoholic beverage (around 40% abv), translates literally into English as “burning spiritus” but is also known as “Black Death”. When eating Icelandic ”hákarl”, putrified shark meat, Brennivín is often used to mask the meat’s taste.

Bríó was the first beer developed by Borg, the microbrewery of the Ölgerðin Egill Skallagrímsson.

Became so popular that the microbrewery could no longer handle the demand; is now made by the larger Ölgerðin’s brewery. Was originally developed with the landlords of one specific pub. Has a light, fresh but distinctly hoppy flavour. Very aromatic. The flavour is largely due to the exclusive use of Mittelfrüh hops, originating from Hallertau in Bavaria. Mittelfrüh hops are prized for their aromatic qualities and notoriously difficult to grow. Very few beers are exclusively flavoured with Mittelfrüh hops, which has gathered some international attention for Bríó. Bríó has, in its short lifespan, already won several awards. Most impressive is a gold medal for best German style Pilsner at the World Beer Cup 2012. Simply put, that means that Bríó can proclaim itself the best pilsner in the world.

Taste the Saga at Egils Brewery Brewed from the purest water in the world, Icelandic beer is a great choice in today‘s varied beer culture. Visitors to the guestroom at Iceland’s oldest brewery have the opportunity to experience Icelanders and their history in a new and innovative way. The tour offered by Iceland Excursion (AH150) takes the guests through Icelandic drinking culture and age old beer traditions come to life. The tour, which is operated Thursday through Sunday at 6pm (pickup time varies, check with IE) is a great value and includes transportation, beverage and snacks.

Follow the Powder Hounds

Follow the Powder Hounds

For the ultimate thrill, try helicoptering into the backcountry

Tired of icy, crowded slopes that end at the concessions all too soon? Consider powder skiing. Skiing the virgin snow of the backcountry isn't easy, but for many of those who have made the effort, it's been the thrill of a lifetime.

There are a few ways to do it. You can climb into the backcountry yourself with skins on your skis and get one, maybe two, runs in a day, or you can hitch a ride.  Helicopters are faster and incredibly scenic, but they are also expensive and vulnerable to weather problems. Snow cats are cheaper and more dependable, but they haven't the speed or range of helicopters.

Helicopter and snow cat reservations are required sometimes far in advance. Skiers should be at least strong intermediates. Safety is a legitimate concern, but the precautions are usually thorough. The machines are frequently and rigorously tested to meet high performance standards, and powder hounds seldom ski alone. Before you begin skiing, you'll each be given a radio receiver and instructions on how to find one another using it, in case of an avalanche or other mishap. Once on the mountain, the guide is careful to examine the snow before your ski, sometimes digging deep holes to study the critical layering of the snow. The result of this is a commendable industry safety record that belies the occasional, much-publicized incident.

The development of new wider skis called “fat boys” is making backcountry skiing easier. Their width provides superior flotation  and handling in most conditions, and users don't tire nearly as fast.

If you go, dress for the occasion. It's best to wear a one-piece ski suit with elastic wrist and ankle closures. Bring at least two pairs of gloves and an extra hat. And prepare yourself physically – start training at least a month in advance. 

Backcountry... Photo by Elena.

Downhill

It's Downhill From Here

The best resorts have greens, blues, and blacks all overwhelming

Looking for lots of expert terrain? Head to Jackson Hole, Mad River Glen, or Mammoth Mountain. Deep powder? Your best bets are Alta, Grand Targhee, or Snowbird. Kids love skiing at Smuggler's Notch, Beaver Creek, and Snowmass, while teen activities are excellent at Sugarloaf, Breckenridge, or Kullington. The ski schools are highly rated at Taos, Beaver Creek, and Deer Valley, while scenery alone is enough reason to go to lake Louise or Telluride. Crowds are seldom found in Solitude or Big Sky, and the weather is consistently fine at Purgatory, Alpine Meadows, and Squaw Valley, Wonderful European ski villages are at Vail and Whistler/Blackcomb, while art aficionados might prefer Aspen or Taos. It's funly and western in Steamboat, and an old mining town waits in Red River. Gamble at Heavenly or party on at Whiteface/Lake Placid. You'll eat well on the mountain in Sun Valley or dine happily in the town of Stowe.

Of course, all these areas have multiple attributes and flaws, as well. The process of weighing them all to get a ranking is, of course, purely subjective. In fact, the table at left shows how three major ski magazines obtained dramatically different results. Here are some of the pros and cons of the ski areas that made Ski magazine's top 10 list. We've noted readers' top preferences at the different resorts.

1. Vail, Colorado: The perennial favorite for Ski readers, Vail is a complete resort. Twenty-five lifts service 4,000-plus acres, including the seven bowls on the back side that often hold powder for days after a storm. The twon is huge, too, with 41,305 beds and plenty of options for shopping, dining, or partying. Vail appeals to a wide range of people, from Europeans and Hollywood celebrities to dishwashing ski bums and snowboarding home-boys – ensuring big crowds throughout the season and lots of votes in readers' polls. Prices are ski-high, too. Top ratings: Snow conditions and grooming, terrain, challenge, fair weather, food, lodging, après-ski, and family programs.

2. Telluride, Colorado: Although tough to get to, there is great scenery and a funky small-town atmosphere in Telluride. The front side looms over the town with a 3,165-foot vertical rise and plenty of bump skeeing, while the back side slopes away to the mountain village. Overall, this is an excellent ski mountain with plenty of terrain variety, and relatively few people crowding it. Top rating : Terrain, lifts and lines, challenge, and fair weather.

A Snow Pyramide. Photo by Elena.

3. Aspen Highlands, Colorado: Aspen Highlands has the highest vertical lift in Colorado (3,800 feet) and two new high-speed quad lifts to service it. There is good variety of terrain, and experts love the two steep ridges that provide innumerable challenges. At the foot of the lifts is one of America's great ski towns, with plenty of restaurants, bars, and jet setters. Top ratings: Snow conditions and grooming, terrain, value, challenge, and fair weather.

4. Alta, Utah: Alta gets 500-plus inches a year, draped over challenging terrain. The lift prices are low too, but that's largely because the resort owner has resisted the urge to modernize. Old and slow lifts result in lineups on the weekends. The local amenities are limited, but Salt Lake City is just 45 minutes away. Top ratings: Snow conditions and grooming terrain, value, challenge, fair weather, and accessibility.

5. Whistler/Blackcomb, British Colombia. These two close-by Canadian resorts boast long runs, wide open terrain, lots of variety, and breathtaking vistas. The service and on-slope lodging are first class, and there are excellent children's programs. The village is car-free with easy strolling between shops and nightspots. But proximity to the Pacific often means wet snow. Terrain, lifts and lines, challenge, food, lodging, apres-ski.

6. Snowbird, Utah: Like Alta a mile up the road, Snowbird gets 500-odd inches of bone-dry powder each year. The terrain is steep (3,100 feet vertical), and features excellent chutes and gullies. There is also an enlarged intermediate section and a separate area for families or beginners. Local apres-skiing options are limited, but not as limited as Alta's. Top rating: Snow conditions and grooming, terrain, challenge, fair weather, and accessibility.

7. Snowmass, Colorado: Just down the road from the town of Aspen, Snowmass is a family area, with vast intermediate terrain (lots of cruising runs) and an excellent ski school. Top ratings: Snow conditions and grooming, terrain, challenge, fair weather, food, lodging, apres-ski, and family programs.

8. Taos Sky Valley, New Mexico: Taos is a hybrid resort, combining European flair with southwestern charm. Steep is the operative word, with long mogul runs and out-of-bounds skiing on Kachina Peak, but there is plenty of intermediate terrain, too. The ski school is consistently ranked as one of the country's best. There are on-slope hotels and restaurants, but a far greater selection exists in the nearby town of Taos, Top ratings: Snow conditions and grooming, terrain, lifts and lines, challenge, fair weather, and family programs.

9. Mammoth Mountain, California: This huge resort is aptly named. At last count there were more than 30 lifts and 150 runs, many of them above the tree line. There is extensive snowmaking in addition to an average annual snowfall of 340 inches. Ans it's only a five-hour drive from Los Angeles. Top ratings: Snow conditions and grooming, terrain, challenge, and fair weather.

10. Steamboat, Colorado: The area is known for its tree-skiing, dense aspen glades that hold powder beautifully. There also is a great ski school, especially for kids, and above-average possibilities for dining and nightlife. But the most prominent feature about Steamboat is the working ranch-town atmosphere. Top Ratings: Snow conditions and grooming, terrain, lifts and lines, challenge, lodging, and family programs.

Where Birds Flock Together

Where Birds Flock Together

All the right places from coast to coast for spotting species

Virtually every setting – coastline, open prairie, big city park – makes for rewarding bird-watching. One of the joys of the sport is how little equipment it requires. Binoculars and a comprehensive field guide are all you need, through a telescope is best for observing waterfowl and other stationary birds. Roger F. Pasquier, an author of several books on birds, works at the Environmental Defense Fund. He chose the following locales as among America's best for bird watching. For information, contact the sources below:

Arkansas National Wildlife Refuge : The 54,000-acre refuge is most famous for its rarest bird, the whooping crane. More than 100 of this highly endangered species (there are only 150 left in the world) are usually here between mid-October and early April, visiting from breeding sites in Alberta. Vistors can view them only at a distance by boat. Five companies run cruises in season. For information, contact Rockport Chamber of Commerce.

Blackwater National wildlife Refuge : One of several outstanding sites on the Eastern Shore of the Chesapeake Bay. Thousands of migrating ducks and geese congreagte in the refuge mid-October through November and mid-February through March (as long as the oibds aren't frozen). Bald eagles are permanent residents.

Cape May Point: Cap May Bird Observatory. The southern tip of New Jersey acts as a funnel for migratory birds between the Atlantic Ocean and Delaware Bay, Mid-August into November, flocks follow the coastline south. North of Cape May, at Stone Harbor Point, look for herons and egrets in spring and summer. The nearby Edwin Forsythe National Wildlife refuge at Oceanville is a haven for waterfowl and shorebirds from fall through spring.

Cave Creek Canyon: U.S. Forest Service, Portal Ranger Station. One of many outstanding birding locations in southern Arizona. Cave Creek contains a wide variety of species in a small area. Of special interest are the many essentially Mexican birds that do not venture farther north of the border, including hummingbirds and the painted redstart.

Central Park in New York, a favorite of birds. Photo by Elena.

Central Park, New York City: Urban Park Rangers. Like its counterparts in other dense cities, Central Park serves as a green oasis, especially important to migratory birds in spring and fall. Late April through May is peak season; on a good day, 70 kg or more species can be seen, including thrushes, vireos, warblers, orioles, tanagers, and other migrants from the tropics. The Ramble, a wooded area on the north side of the park's main lake, lures most species. The reservoir is a winter favorite of ducks and gulls.

Cheyenne Bottoms Wildlife Management Area: Dept. of Wildlife and Parks. Cheyenne Bottoms. This western Kansas wetland is an important locale for waterfowl and other birds dependent on marshes. Thousands of ducks and geese use the bottoms, and as many as 15.000 American white pelicans land here during migration.

Dauphin Island: Audubon Bird Sanctuary, Al.: This 14-mile barrier island near Mobile is one of many landfalls along the Gulf Coast known for the vast numbers of northbound migrants every spring that need to rest and feed after their long flight across the Gulf of Mexico. The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary is one of the best birding spots on the island. Shorebirds, terns, marsh birds can be seen much of the year in the mudflats, lagoons, and other wetlands.

Everglades National Park, Homestead, Fl.: Some 2,200 square miles of wetland encompassing most of the undeveloped parts of southern Florida. A system of paved roads, trails and patches of woods. Many species of herons, egrets, and other wading birds are abundant. In spring and summer the spectacular swallow-tailed kite glides overhead. Many Everglade birds are tame enough to be photographed easily.

Grand Teton National Park, Moose, Wy: The park combines spectacular scenery and diverse habitats typical of the Rockies. The endangered trumpeter swan breeds here. Note the regular replacement of one species by a close relative as the elevation changes – a progression you can see among the jays (including the black-billed magpie and Clark's nutcracker), nuthatches, chickadees, thrushes, and sparrows.

Hawk Mountain Sanctuary Association, Kempton, PA: This site along the Kittatinny Ridge (the eastern chain of the Appalachians), located 35 miles from Reading, is on a flight path for migrating birds of prey. Late August through November, all eastern North American species of hawks, eagles, and falcons take this aerial highway in numbers.

Monterey Peninsula, Pacific Grove Museum of Natural history,, Pacific Grove, Ca: The municipal wharf and the Coast Guard pier and breakwater allow for good views of saltwater ducks, gulls, and alcids (murres, guillemots, and other puffnlike birds). From Point Pinos, you can see shearwaters and alcids over the sea. Along the rocky shore look for Pacific coast species, including the black oystercatcher, the surfbird, and the wandering tattler.

Mount Desert Island, Acadia National Park, Bar Harbor, ME:  Habitats include oceanside cliffs, sphagnum bogs, spruce and fir forests, and bare mountain peaks, all accessible by roads and trails. Excellent birding throughout the year: common eiders, black guillemots, bald eagles, northern ravens, and gray jays. May through August, 200 wood warbler species and many other migrants from the tropics nest here. In winter, sea ducks are easily visible in the harbors.

Tule Lake, Klamath Basin National Wildlife Refuges, Tulelake, CA: Three national wildlife refuges – Lower Klamath, Clear Lake (not open to the public), and Tule Lake – are oases for waterbirds in the semidesert near the Oregon border. The refuges support significant breeding populations of grebes, ducks, gulls, terns, and cormorants. Rarely seen sage grouse live in the dry uplands.

Yosemite National Park, Merced, Ca: Elevations in the Sierra Nevada range from 2,000 to 13,000 feet, providing a cross section of habitats. Many birds typical of more northerly forests are easy to see, including the great gray owl and pine grosbeak. Rare in the East, they coexist with typical Rockies denizens like the calliope hummingbird and others. Spring and summer are the best seasons.