Mother Nature's Deluxe Abodes
National park lodges show off the best of rustic architecture
In addition to the largest canyons, the biggest geysers, and the most pristine wilderness, America's national parks contain some of the best preserved rustic hotels in the United States. These capacious lodges were built with stones and trees hewn directly from the stunning landscapes they occupy in an attempt to recreate the great outdoors indoors. Park architects such as Frederick Law Olmsted, eschewing straight lines and sophisticated accoutrements and instead building soaring lobbies, gnarled log balconies, four-story, stone fireplaces and log furniture that harkened back to pioneer days.
Rustic architecture reached its apotheosis during the 1930s with numerous WPA projects designed to put men to work and promote national parks. Many of the buildings are now either national landmarks or on the National Register as some of the most beautiful places to stay in the country. The rooms are as comfortable as those of any fine urban abode, but the hotels remain what their creators intended: one of man's most ambitious attempts to build on a grand scale in harmony with nature.
Here, Harvey Kaiser, vice president of Syracose University and author of Landmarks in the Landscape, a history of park architecture, recommends the most beautiful lodges in the country. All are either national landmarks or on the National Register; many have undergone major renovations. Because of their popularity, some lodges may be difficult to reach by telephone, so we've included fax numbers and addresses to write for more information.
Ahwahnee Hotel (/915) – Yosemite National Park: Its asymmetrical rock columns and varied levels convey the impression of a mountain range. The concrete exterior is dyed red to match the redwood forest. The floor-to-ceiling stained glass windows offer splendid views of the soaring walls of Yosemite Valley. Open year-round.
Bryce Canyon Lodge (1925): Bryce Canyon National Park. Atop a mesa overlooking the colorfully hued stone walls of Bryce-Canyon, the lodge and adjacent cabins are classic examples of rustic architecture. A wave-patterned, cedar-shingle roof, stone masonry,wrought-iron chandeliers, and liberal use of sold log beams (one measures 52 feet) give an Old West feel. Open April 15 to November 1.
El Tovar Lodge (1905): Grand Canyon National Park. Only 50 feet from the South Rim of the Grand Canyon, El Tovar was one of the first railroad destination resorts. Original promotional literature described it as a combination of Swiss Chalet and Norway villa. With Indian murals and crafts throughout, it is among the most eclectic hotels in the national parks. Today, it is also one of the most luxurious, with first-rate service and gourmet meals. Opean year-round.
Lake McDondals Lodge (1913). Glacier National Park. This mountainous lake region, so similar to the Swiss Alps, inspired architects to build one of the premier examples of Swiss chalet hotel architecture in the United States. Lying atop a small rise, the western façade of the hotel faces out across Lake McDonald, the largest lake in the park, with views of the magnificent snow-capped mountain beyond. Open May to October.
North Rim Lodge (1927). Grand Canyon National Park. Lying on the edge of the North Rim, the lodge with adjacent cabins offers an inexpensive alternative to El Tovar. It is built into the side of the rim; its several levels actually step down from the canyon rim. The many terraces and observation decks offer breathtaking views of the canyon. Also notable is the oversize fireplace on the eastern terrace – big enough for an adult to walk into. Open mid-May through mid-October.
Old Faithful Inn (1904). Yellowstone National Park. The first national park building constructed in an architectural style harmonious with the grandeur of the surrounding landscape, this hotel boasts a seven-story-high log lobby. Many rooms have views of the world-famous Old Faithful geyser nearby. Open May 5 to October 22.
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| A hotel at night. Photo by Elena. |
Oregon Caves Chateau (1934). Oregon Caves National Monument. Located in the Siskiyou Mountains next to the entrance to the only limestone cave formation in Oregon, this hotel actually spans a small gorge; the fourth floor is at road level. The fireplace, according to a recent study, is one of the largest in the state if not on the entire West Coast. Also of note is a stream that runs through the first-floor dining room and disappears outside into a lush green forest. Open March 11 to May 22, and September 7 to December 31 at bed-and-breakfast rate.
Paradise Inn (1916). Mount Rainier National Park. One of the earliest ski resorts in the country, Paradise Inn lies at an elevation of 5,400 feet. The exterior has a lovely, shimmering silver quality due to the use of timbers that were aged 30 years before construction. Significant are the hand-crafted artistry and Gothic feeling reminiscent of northern European woodwork. Open May 17 to October 1.
Stanley Hotel (1909). Rocky Mountain National Park. A regular stop for world leaders such as the emperor of Japan – but still affordable – this Neo-Georgian hotel provides Old World elegance in the heart of the Rockies. Canopy beds and antique furniture are found throughout the unique rooms. Although unlike the rustic landmark hotels on the list, Kaiser felt that it was too magnificent to leave out. Open year-round,
Wawona Hotel (1876). Yosemite National Park. This hotel predates the rustic movement, but it is the largest existing Victorian hotel complex within a national park, and one of the best preserved in the United States. The hotel complex also contains the studio of Thomas Hill, one of the last great painters of the Hudson River School. Open April 1 to November 25 continuously and intermittently the rest of the year.à, roome with bath.
