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Wednesday, April 11, 2018

Grandi

Grandi


Just off the city centre lies the old harbour area. Known as Grandi (which is Icelandic for Isthmus, a narrow strip of land connecting two larger bodies of land) the land was originally just a stretch of sand connecting Reykjavík to Örfirisey island but has been added to considerably in the years since. For decades, this was simply an industrial neighbourhood with fish processing plants and shipyards, but when the new harbour by Sundalhörn was built, much of the industry was moved there leaving empty buildings in a popular area looking for a new purpose.

The conditions were perfect for an old harbour renaissance and soon enough, started using the spaces for exhibitions, designers opened workshops, students worked on start-ups and restaurants started opening up to feed all the people working there. Fast forward a few years and the Old harbour is one of the most exciting neighbourhoods in Reykjavík to visit. It still retains its dockside charm and more than a whiff of the fishing industry’s presence built a steadily growing number of museums, hip restaurants and artisan’s workshops have made their home in the vacated industrial buildings, making Grandi one of the hottest spots in the city.

Art and Culture


Art and all sorts of creative thought are a big part of life in the old harbour district. Not only is there art in the buildings in the area but outside them as well, with huge murals of street are decorating various buildings around the area and large outdoor art pieces such Olöf Nordal’s Pufan (the hillock) pleasing the eye. The old harbour is home to plenty of artist’s workshops as well as the Reykjavík School of Visual Arts and the most recent addition to the old harbour, the Marshall building. This recently refurbished herring factory is home to the Living Arts Museums, Kling & Bang Gallery, artist Olafur Eliasson’s studio and Marshall restaurant and bar.

In addition to the art museums and galleries, the old harbour also boasts historical and natural museums. There’s no better place for the Reykjavík Maritime Museum than the old harbour – you can smell the fresh sea air as you learn all about the fascinating story of Icelendic fishermen, who’ve been risking their lives on the open ocean for centuries. You can even take a tour of Odinn, a former Coast Guard vessel from the 1950’s, that played an important rôle in Iceland’s struggle with the UK over the rights to fish in the sea around the island. In addition to the Maritime Museum, you can visit an exhibition on the Northern Lights, a great hall with life-size models of the whales of Iceland, a volcano museum, and an exhibition of wax dioramas depicting the Viking age in Iceland.

Shopping


Amongst the interesting flora of culture and cuisine is a smatering of small workshops and quirky stores, such as designers’ workshops producing clothes, handbags, homeware and everything in between, a fashion label working with natural fabrics and delicatessen shops selling charcuterie and cheeses. You’ll even find a chocolate factory selling high-quality chocolate bars and a jeweler’s workshop. The best thing about shopping at the old harbour is that the shops and workshops are small and often you’ll have a chance to meet and chat with the designers and storeowners themselves, giving precious insight into life in Reykjavík.

Typical Icelandic nature. Photo by Olga

Eating and Drinking


Some of Reykjavík’s most exciting eateries have opened in the old harbour are in the past few years. Not only can you find fine dining, everday grub and everything in between, but there are also some specialty food stores that will make your mouth water. Try some new Nordic food, Icelandic style, or get some sourdough sandwiches that will knock your socks off.

Eating fresh Icelandic fish in the harbour surroundings is a life-affirming experience and don’t forget to stop by a cake shop or the ice cream store for some dessert. If you’ve satisfied your hunger but are still feeling thirsty, you can get some in-house brewed beer or innovative cocktails, try one with an Icelandic spirit – maybe a birch-flavoured liqueur or even Iceland’s famous Brennivin.

The Marshall Building


Originally built in 1948 as a herring factory, the Marshall building is one of the beautiful old factory buildings in the old harbour. It is one of the buildings that has gotten a new lease on life with the changes at the old harbour and today it houses the Living Art Museum, the Kling&Bang Gallery and Olafur Eliasson’s studio, as well as a restaurant which shares a name with the building. The Marshall name comes from George Marshall, an American general whose plan to build up Europe’s economy after WWII was very beneficial to Iceland’s economic growth in the 1940’s and 1950’s.

The Living Art Museum


The Living Art Museum (Nylo) is a non-profit, artist-run museum and association, venue for events, exhibitions, performances, discussions and research. Founded in 1878, the Living Art Museum was a reaction to the government’s staid vision, at the time, of what constituted art and art history, giving ground-breaking artists a voice and a venue for their experimental art. The museum has an extensive collection of Icelandic contemporary art, based on donations by members and friends of the museum. The museum has, through the years, been at the vanguard of the Icelandic art scene but has also struggled with housing and financing. With a new permanent home in the Marshall building. The Living Art Museum is once again an inspiring venue for experimental art in Iceland.

Kling & Bang


The Kling & Bang ballery was founded in 2003 by a group of artists with a goal to present art that challenges the contest and content of creative thought. The Kling & Bang group has been behind some of the most exciting and innovative exhibitions in the past few years and with the grand new exhibition space, they can continue their exciting work.
Studio Olafur Elianson

Olafur Eliasson is an Icelandic/Danish artist, whose work has been exhibited in some of the most prestigious museums and galleries all over the world. Focusing mostly on sculptures ang large scale installations, Olafur’s best known work in Iceland is the honeycomb-like glass and steel façade of the Harpa Concert Hall. His studio in Iceland will be open to the public and work in progress as well as completed works will be on display.

Marshall bar + restaurant


Artists need to eat to and the Marshall building is also home to the Marshall restaurant + bar. In a building dedicated to contemporary and ground-breaking art, the food must be exciting enough to match. Luckily, the menu at Marshall is tantalisingly appetizing, with fresh Icelandic fish and other ingredients prepared under the influence of Mediterranean cuisine. Enjoying the fresh flaours of Icelandic seafood, while looking out the large windows over the harbour is going to be the cherry on top of your visit to the old harbour

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