Peeling Away the Marks of Age

Peeling Away the Marks of Age

Alpha-hydroxies help smooth aging skin, but they leave you red-faced

As aging baby boomers continue to battle against laugh lines and crow’s feet, sales of the latest product to off-set the effects of aging have grown to $300 million annually. Known as Alpha-hydroxy acids, or AHAs, the wrinkle-fighters are classified by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration as cosmetics rather than drugs. But the long-term safety of AHAs has yet to be established by medical testing.

AHAs work by stripping off the top layer of skin and causing cell turnover, which uncovers fresher-looking skin. The skin underneath retains water better, which helps to fill in lines and give the skin a more youthful appearance. The new skin also sheds dead cells faster for a cleaner look. AHAs also are reported to remove superficial wrinkles, acne, blemishes, and blackheads, and to soften some of the effects of sun damage on the face.

AHAs come in a variety of forms, including moisturizers, facial soaps, gels, toners astringents, and hand and body products. Some contain salicylic acid, which tightens skin but doesn’t slough off dead skin or surface blemishes. Fruit acids are widely used, but they don’t penetrate the skin as well as other formulae.

Dermatologists have generally used glycolic acids, which are derived from sugarcane, at 10 percent strength. They apply the formula to the face for a few minutes and the peel it off, taking blackheads, blemishes, and the surface of the skin with it. A neutralizing cream is then applied. The patient will have a reddish face for days until another layer of skin peels off.

Marks of Age. Photo by Elena.

Performed by a doctor, the process may cost hundreds of dollars, by a beauty salon, about 20% less, depending on how many treatments are required.

Adverse side effects often depend on the strength of the acid being used, as well as the sensitivity of the person’s skin. When cosmetic versions of AHAs were first marketed in the early 1990s, the acid concentrations were no more than 4 percent. Today, several cosmetic products such as MD Formulations, Decleor, Clinique’s Turnaround Creme boast concentrations of up to 10 percent. That is no higher than the strengths long applied in doctors’ offices, but a patient receiving a peel under medical supervision is much more likely to get prompt attention should there be an adverse skin reaction. At concentrations of 10 percent, even people who follow the directions for a cosmetic product carefully may find that their skin turns red and flaky and remains so for days.

Unless FDA finds something at fault with AHAs, or a better antiwrinkle treatment is found, the popularity of AHAs in not likely to fade. Legend has is, in fact, that Cleopatra was a believer in alpha-hydroxies, bathing in sour milk because of the benefits lactic acid had on her fabled skin.

Over-the-Counter Wrinkle Fighters

There are a host of skin creams containng alpha-hydroxy acids now on the market. Their acid concentration in usually no higher than 15 percent. Here are some popular brands and their acid strengths:

• Alpha Ceramide Time Complex System: Elizabeth Arden – acid concentration: 3% to 7é5% hydroxy acids.
• Alpha Hydrox Cream: Neoteric Cosmetics – 8% glycolic acid.
• Anew Intensive: Avon – 8% glycolic acid.
• Eucerin Moisturizing Lotion Plus: Beiersdorf, Inc. – 5% sodium lactate.
• Murad Skin Smoothing Cream: Murad – 12% glycolic acid.
• NeoStrate-15 AHA Face Cream: NeoStrata Company – 15% glycolic acid.
• Almay Time-Off Age Smoothing Eye Cream: Almay – 5% alpha-hydroxy acid.