South Iceland

South Iceland

South Iceland is by far the most well-known area amongst tourists in the country. It stretches from Höfn í Hornafjörður in the east down to Hveragerði in the south and makes up most of the southern highlands. South Iceland contains two of the three national parks in the country, Vatnajökull National Park, the biggest in Europe, and Þingvellir National Park. It is a mix of farmland, glaciers, rugged mountains and flowing rivers, geothermal springs, icy waterfalls and floating icebergs. The main traffic route is Road 1 which is tarred. Be aware that there are 20 single lane bridges between Reykjavík and Höfn. Even though the road itself is monotonously straight sometimes, the scenery can be a huge distraction, so please take care when driving. For more information on road and weather conditions, contact the information centres or go to www.south.is.

There are many pearls in the south, most of which are close to Road 1 and are easily accessible. The main ones are:

Jökulsárlón, the beautiful iceberg lake close to Höfn.

Svartifoss waterfall, surrounded by black basalt columns in the Vatnajökull National Park.

Reynisfjara Beach, a magnificent black beach, with extremely dangerous waves. Not to be taken lightly. Wonderful rock formations called Reynisdrangar.

Dyrhólaey, a rock arch stretching into the ocean, offering wonderful panoramic views.

Skógafoss waterfall, a powerful wall of water from two glaciers, often producing double rainbows.

Seljalandsfoss waterfall, F the beautiful waterfall that you can walk behind and feel the spray.

Þórsmörk, a beautiful nature reserve with its own micro-climate created by the protection of three surrounding glaciers. Valleys of forests, flowered gullies and icy rivers. Not too easily accessible.

Landmannalaugar, a beautiful oasis in the southern highlands with geothermal hot springs. Multi-coloured rhyolite mountains and lava valleys create spectacular scenery. Hekla, Iceland‘s majestic and most eruptive volcano stands tall in the southern highlands.

Waterfall in Iceland. Photo - Olga

Gullfoss waterfall, part of the Golden Circle, this magnificent waterfall is breathtaking.

Geysir, a geothermal field of bubbling mud pots and steamy erupting geysers.

Strokkur is the main attraction spouting 30m into the air.

Þingvellir National Park and UNESCO World Heritage site. It is the seat of the world’s first parliament and a continental drift, manifesting in Almannagjá canyon. Part of the Golden Circle.

Kerið, a volcanic crater with azure blue water.

Some of these hidden pearls might require a few detours from Road 1, but are well worth the effort.

Höfn í Hornafjörður is the northernmost town in South Iceland with around 1633 inhabitants. It serves as a centre for tourism around the southern part of the Vatnajökull National Park. There is an airport connecting Höfn with Reykjavík, making it more accessible from the capital. Höfn is best-known for its successful lobster catch and celebrates annually with the Lobster Festival, so this is where to eat langoustine when in Iceland. The creepy, creaking noise heard in the middle of the night is due to the moving Vatnajökull Glacier which makes a beautiful backdrop to the town. Höfn has a good range of restaurants, accommodation choices and museums. It is a thriving community, making the most of tourism and fishing.

2 About 60km south of Höfn is the farm, Hali. It is a fifth-generation working farm, with a country hotel and heritage centre called Þórbergursetur, which covers local history and the life of famous author, Þórbergur Þórðarsson, a self-taught man and enthusiastic esperantist. The restaurant is famous for its farm-raised arctic char and local traditional food.

3 Heading south, a little further on from Jölulsárlón is a smaller, less congested lagoon called Fjallsárlón glacier lagoon. Just as spectacular, but slightly hidden, this lagoon is full of floating icebergs and their bluish colours. Boat trips are offered on Fjallsárlón.

4 Skaftafell is the Visitor’s Centre for the national park and serves as a base camp for ventures onto the glacier as well as hiking to Hvannadalshnjúkur, Iceland‘s highest peak (2110m). Located at the base of Vatnajökull, it is in a beautiful setting and has a good camping site. Excellent for information about hiking routes, services and activities in the area. Skaftafellsstofa has an exhibition about glaciers and volcanoes and their effects on local settlers.

5 Kirkjubæjarklaustur, a popular pitstop on Road 1. This tiny village is surrounded by meaningful landmarks revealing its history as a convent. Systrastapi, (Sisters’ Rock) is where two nuns were buried after being burnt at the stake for indecent sexual behaviour and blasphemy. Other landmarks are Systrafoss waterfall and Systravatn above the town. Another very interesting formation is the Kirkjugólf (Church Floor), a collection of eroded basalt columns resembling a tiled floor.

6 Vík í Mýrdal is the southernmost seaside village and one that does not have a harbour. Not to be outdone, Vík is famous for its amphibious boats which enable the fishermen to drive out to sea and this also provides an excellent solution for boat trips from Vík. The coastline is dramatic, jagged and stunning with formations such as Dyrhólaey, Reynisdrangar and the infamous Reynisfjara beach. This beauty does not come without its dangers when the tide of the ocean is at its most active. Please be careful in this area as the ocean has taken a victim or two on Reynisfjara beach. The service station, wool and souvenir shops on the main road make for a relaxing ыtop halfway between Reykjavík and Höfn. Many outdoor activities are offered from this pretty village, including paragliding, sightseeing flights and dogsledding.

7 Eyjafjallajökull Visitor Centre born from the world-famous eruption that disrupted aviation on a large scale. A dramatic documentary displaying the effects of the eruption on the family and animals of Þorvaldseyri. The farm is 40km from Hvolsvöllur and was the pioneer in grain farming in Iceland.

8 Vestmannaeyjar, an archipelago of volcanic islands off the south coast with Heimaey being the only inhabited island. Two historical events have shaped this island, the Turkish invasion of 1627 and the devastating eruption of 1973. A project to unearth buried houses was named Pompeii of the North and is still ongoing. Built around one of the excavated houses, the Eldheimar Museum offers an unforgettable experience of remembering that fateful eruption. Today, Heimaey is a thriving fishing community and a popular tourist destination.

The Cake of the Year competition was won by Westman Islands baker, Davið Arnórsson from Stofan Bakery. This delicious skyr-based cake is sold all year throughout the country in bakeries aligned with the National Association of Bakers. There is no shortage of activities on the Westman Islands. Cliff hanging or Spranga is a favourite past time for the locals, wonderful boat trips around the islands give the opportunity to see whales and puffins closeup. Sightseeing trips of the island are offered and there are many great walking trails too. There are three museums in town. The excellent 18-hole golf course is set in an old volcanic crater under steep cliffs. The Volcano Open is played here annually. Heimaey has an airport for flights to and from Reykjavík and the ferry goes to Landeyjarhöfn or Þorlákshöfn on the mainland. Please check which harbour is being used on the day of your departure.

9 Only half an hour from Landeyjarhöfn is Hvolsvöllur, a small service town with big ideas. The Njál’s Saga Centre is dedicated to the mediaeval times of burnt Njáll and other Icelandic sagas. There is an exhibition in several languages, an art gallery and a replica of a Viking longhouse where traditional refreshments are served. The Njál’s The Saga tapestry is a work in progress dependent on public participation, thus giving the visitor a way to experience Njál‘s saga personally. Another big idea is the impressive LAVA – Iceland Volcano and Earthquake Centre. This is a newly-opened interactive display of Earth’s formation and fiery antics. This modern exhibition has an earthquake simulator and stunning special effects to enhance the experience of Icelandic nature. There is a great 360° viewing platform of the three surrounding volcanoes, Eyjafjallajökull, Katla and Hekla. LAVA is the main gate to the Katla Geopark.

10 Close to Road 1 is a pretty waterfall called Urriðafoss gently flowing within the Þjórsá River. This river stands to be harnessed for hydroelectric power, which might threaten the very existence of the waterfall itself.

11 Selfoss is a pretty town situated on the banks of the Ölfusá River. It is the largest town in South Iceland and is perfectly located for trips into the southern highlands. It has a large selection of restaurants and accommodation. For chess fans, The Bobby Fischer Centre is full of paraphernalia from the famous chess match between Spassky and Fischer in 1972. There is also a very fine swimming pool complex and a 9-hole golf course.

12 Hveragerði’s steamy geothermal nature is seen long before arrival to the town. This is a hotbed of beauty, greenhouses and surprises. The Geothermal Park in the middle of town is interesting. There are a number of wonderful walking trails leading through the steamy valley closeby. Hveragerði is the home of Iceland’s NFLI Health and Rehabilitation Clinic, a very apt location for health and wellbeing. Reykjadalur, the steamy valley of hot springs along a warm river is just outside the town. Driving up to Hellisheiði on the way to Reykjavik offers a spectacular view over the region.

13 Going inland from Road 1 at Selfoss onto Road 35 towards Geysir, through the farmland valleys, there are a number of little villages that have sprung up around geothermal areas, each with its own character. A wide selection of restaurants, accommodation and activities are on offer in this area. Road 35 leads to Sólheimar, an ecovillage and organic farm. Visitors are welcome.

14 Further along is Skálholt, a cultural, historical and spiritual centre with a cathedral, tomb of bishops and a museum.

15 On Road 31 at Laugarás, there is a nice surprise for families. The Slakki Petting Zoo and recreation centre is a great stop for tired kids and frazzled parents. Indoor mini- golf, a restaurant and a good selection of animals to pet.

16 The farmhouse at Þjóðveldisbær in Þjórsárdalur is a replica of archaeological findings of a mediaeval longhouse buried by the Hekla eruption of 1104 at Stöng. It is quite far out of the way on Road 32, but the landscape and scenery make the detour worthwhile. Open from June to September.

17 Back to Road 1 at Selfoss, and taking a small detour towards the coastline onto Road 305 will not disappoint as it leads to the Tré og List gallery on the farm, Forsæti. This is a wonderful display of excellent wood craftsmanship and art with friendly hosts.

Continuing on Road 305 along the Þjórsá River, is Baugsstaðir Creamery. Its 1904 original equipment is still in place despite its closure in 1952. This preserved creamery is open to the public during the summer.

19 Along the coastal road to Stokkseyri stands the Knarrarós lighthouse towering above the horizon, resembling a church steeple. A new role for the disused fish factory in Stokkseyri has culminated in the Culture House which hosts ghosts, trolls and elves as well as Northern Lights. These three museums are the heart of the town and indicative of how the tourism industry has taken over from the fishing industry. A humble cottage called Þuríðarbúð, erected in 1949 in honour of Þuríður Einarsdóttir, fishing captain and solver of crimes stands amongst the homes of locals. The wild ocean along the coastline of Stokkseyri is a beautiful force to behold.

20 Eyrarbakki’s heyday might be long gone, but the village is graced with beautifully-preserved buildings from 1890-1920, offering a glimpse into the past. The town has two museums, the Maritime Museum and the Árnessýsla Folk Museum built in 1765. The magical Flói Bird Reserve is a recognized area for about 70 species of wetland birds by the Bird Life International Association. It has a bird hide specially designed for wheelchair access. Litla-Hraun, Iceland’s home for hardline criminals, is located in Eyrarbakki.

21 Þorlákshöfn, the only active fishing village on the south coast due to its natural harbour. It is also the ferry connection for the Westman Islands. Hendur í Höfn is a coffee shop and glass art gallery offering 4-hour courses in glass art. Some of the furniture is made from recycled palettes, giving the coffee shop its unique ambience.

22 Strandarkirkja in Selvogur near Krýsuvík is the richest church in Iceland. This humble wooden church stands alone next to the crashing waves of the south coast. Hidden forces of the unknown are said to inhabit this church, aiding success and good luck. Open every day in summer, and on weekends in winter. Donations welcome. Þuríðarbúð Strandarkirkja Iðunn Keeper of the apples of eternal youth, which the Gods eat to stay immortal.