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Sunday, June 17, 2018

The Perfect Caribbean Island

The Perfect Caribbean Island

We've scoured the azure sea and discovered its gems...


Although there are 26 territories, countries, or commonwealths in the Caribbean, there are hundreds of individual islands, some of them spectacular. The bad news for sun worshippers and pleasure seekers is there are very few islands left that are “undiscovered”. The good news is times change – governments are overthrown, new resorts are built, airlines add new routes... Beaches once occupied by fully armed U.S. Marines are now filled with sunbathers carrying weapons no more lethal than sunblock. And the new beauty spots aren't hard to find. A veritable army of travel writers is constantly on the lookout for the poshest, cheapest, most environmentally correct, most decadent – or whatever else – spot.

With this in mind we set out to find the “hot” islands of the Caribbean by meticulously tracking everything that has been written about the vacationer's paradise. What emerges is a startling consensus about where a sybarite will find the most sun and fun. We are shielding away from bigger, more commercial islands, such as Jamaica, Barbados, St.Martin or Aruba, looking instead for places off the beaten track. Here's what we discovered:

Anguilla


Anguilla is considered by many to be the new St.Barts, the super-expensive Francophone hangout that's been the glitteratti' island of choice. Like St.Barts, Anguilla is small, just 16 miles long and 3,4 miles wide, and has probably the best beaches in the Caribbean. The island is long and completely flat, resembling a finger. Its tone is somewhat less intimidating than St.Barts. There still are reasonably priced places to stay and eat, and there is a significantly large local population, which means you are just as likely to share your table with a Rastafarian as with a movie star.

Best beaches: There are over 30 white sandy beaches. Highlights among them: 

Shoal, Rendezvous Bay, Mounday's, Meads. The best coral reef for snorkeling is at Sandy Isle, just offshore from Sandy Ground. A bout service can get you there.

Hot spots: Beautiful restaurants, such as Johnnos, with a great view of sailboat races, picnic tables, grilled lobsters, and good beer.

Best Trek: Journey to Windward Point, at the eastern tip of the island; walk through the former Katouche Plantation at Crocus Bay and around the 100-acre salt pond at Sandy Ground. 

Flight by American Airlines from San Juan, Puerto Rico.

Best places to stay : Mailiouhana : The island's most highly touted resort, is situated on a cliff overlooking Meads Bay. Formal and chic, it has staffers for every guest. Rendezvous Bay, with dozens of beach cottages sprawled over many wild acres, in the island's first seaside resort.

A perfect view on the sea. Photo by Elena.

Bequia


This tiny 7-square-mile island has been popular with yachters because of its laid-back ambiance and picturesque, hill sheltered harbor. The island's casual pace was threatened by the construction of an airport, but the place hasn't changed much; it's just easier to get to. The island is refreshingly unglitzy and a great bargain.

Best beaches: Lower Bay, a classic Caribbean beach with white sand, palm trees, and a five-minute swim to the island's most accessible snorkeling reef.

Hot spot: De Reef, the Lower Bay beach bar, is popular with locals who go for the island's home brew, Haroun beer.

Best place to stay: Frangipani is a century-old West-Indies-style family inn nestled into a hill overlooking the harbor. The best rooms have private baths and face the garden.

Dominica


The largest of the windward islands, Dominica shoots up from the sea in a series of formerly volcanic peaks and slopes. It has no white beaches, no serious resorts, and no night life. Though it has long been a haven for divers and hikers, ecotravelers have tried to keep quiet about the wonders of a vacation on Dominica. Three-quarters of the island consists of untillable slopes rising steeply from low-lying rain forests, making for some of the most scenic hiking in the Caribbean. Waterfalls and hot springs abound. Underwater are some of the healthiest and most dramatic reefs left in the islands.

Best treks:  Boiling Lake is a huge bubbling cauldron of extremely hot sulfur water in the southeast corner of the island. One of the natural wonders of the Caribbean, it can be reached by a challenging six- to eight-hour hike through the Valley of Desolation. Be sure to go with a guide. The 140-foot Trafalgar Falls in northeast of Roseau, just outside of Morne Trois Pitons National Park. Half the falls are icy cold while the other half spring from a volcanic source at a consistent 104 degrees. Middleham Falls, within Dominican National Park, is spectacular but difficult to reach.

Best place to stay: Papillote is a unique guest house nestled into a steep canyon that is super low key, informal and eco-sensitive. The hot water is fed from a real hot spring. Rooms are spare but comfortable, the food is traditional Caribbean.

Grenada


For many Americans, this island still conjures images of U.S. Troops landing on its beaches. That's kept its prices somewhat lower than on many other island for many years, but all the important amenities are there.

Best beaches: Grand Anse.

Hot Spot: The open-air market, on Saturday's in Grenada's capital, St. George's, is a colorful melange of tropical fruits and island crafts.

Best treks: Grand Etang, a 3,800-acre park about 20 minutes from St.George's has its center Grand Etang Lake. The lake is the crater of an extinct volcano, as is surrounded by mountains that are prime bird-watching territory. Seven Sisters Waterfalls has seven cascades, each with deep, cool pools, but should be toured with a guide.

Best place to stay: La Source is on of the few real spas in the Caribbean. It offers individually designed menus and a range of spa treatments including mud baths, seaweed wraps, massages, yoga, meditation, and stress maangement.

Montserrat


Before Hurricane Hugo destroyed the most famous recording studi (Air Studios) in the Caribbean, Montserrat was the habitat of Micj Jagger, Elton John, and Setve Wonder. Known as the emerald island of the Caribbean because of its rich, green landscape, the tiny island is 11 miles long by 7 miles wide. The topography is volcanic and mountainous, with one peak reaching 3,000 feet. Striking views abound.

Best beaches: There are few beaches, but there is one nice white sand crescent: Rendezvous Bay, an excellent place to rent a villa, as there are few hotels.

Hot spot: Rootsman, a beach bar on Carr's Bay that serves the local “bush” rum.

Best treks: Mount Chance, a 3,002-foot volcanic peak, is accessible by a strenuous natural trail of steps from the road south of Plymouth. The hike takes about an hour and a half and offers stunning views. Galway's Soufriere no longer spouts lava, but the still-active volcano bubbles springs and sulfur. A hike to the Soufriere from the village of St.Patrick's takes about two hours by road and trail. A guide is required. The Great Alps Falls drops into a 70-foot gorge. A 45-minute hike starts in St.Patrick's, and winds uphill about a mile. There is a small, swimmable pool at the bottom. Guides are recommended for all trips. Tours can be arranged by the Montserrat Tour Guides Association.

Best place to stay: The Vue Point Hotel has individual cottages sloping down the hill above Old Road Bay.

Flight: From Antigua, connect to the island.

A calm beacn on a Caribbean island. Picture by Elena.

Mustique


The popularity of this island, whose name means “mosquito”, stems from the fabulously wealth and famous people who owned houses on it, among them: Mick Jagger, David Bowie, and Princes Margaret.

Best Beach: Macaroni Beach.

Hot Spot: Basil's Bar, an upscale, but casual bar. Jump-up buffet with reggae band and jam. For celebrity watching, try the tiny Anglican church on Easter and Christmas.

Best place to stay: The Cotton House, a former 18th-century plantation house, is the island's only hotel.

Nevis


Just two miles away from St.Kitts and a 50-minute charter flight from St.Barts, Nevis is more laid back than either. The Four Seasons opened a fantastically expensive resort here back in 1991, with a Robert Trent Jones golf course, but the rest of the Island is still relatively poor, sleepy, and charming. For people looking for a more old-fashioned Caribbean experience sans condos, night life, and duty-free shops, Nevis is a good choice. The former plantation houses are the best places to stay.

Best beaches: Pinneyès, a 6-mile stretch of sand, and Newcastle Bay beach are great for snorkeling. All the beaches on the island are white sand.

Hot Spot: The 25-mile main road that circumnavigates the island. The circuit takes two hours to complete.

Best Trek: Nevis Peak, a 3,232-foot-high mountain, sits in the island's center. Hamilton Trail, a popular two-and-a-half hour hike to its peak, traverses part of a rain forest and leads to spectacular views of surrounding islands. Guides can be found through the Nevis Historical and Conservation Society.

Best Places to stay: Montpelier Plnatation Inn is a large stone house with eight ocean-view bungalows, a lap pool, and a shuttle to Pinney's Beach. Princess Di used to pitch up for some rest and relaxation. The Hermtage, built in 1780, it the oldest building on Neves. Among its amenities, a stable of eight thoroughbred horses ready for guests to ride.

St.Barts


The choicest of the Caribbean islands, because of its French flavor, beautiful beaches, swanly gourmet restaurants, and extremely high ratio of celebrities. The island also has the most hair-raising airplane landing and the highest prices in the Caribbean.

Best Beaches: Gouverneur Beach, Colombiere Beach, Grand Saline Beach, and Flamands Beach (in that order). Colombiere Beach on the northwest coast can only be reached by boat or trail. The trail starts at Flamands Beach, at the west end, and is about a 20-minute hike. Bring food and drink as the beach is totally uninhabited. A word to the prudish: bathing suits (top and bottom) are optional on the island.

Hot Spot: Chez Maya, a tres chic beachside restaurant in Gustavia with Vietnamese and Caribbean cuisine. A celebrity hangout.

Best places to stay: Guanhani is far from the airport and Gustavia, the main town, but is boasts a gorgeous beach, many pools, and is good for families. Hostellerie des Trois Forces is a small inn nestled in the easter slope of Morne du Vitet. 

Flight: To St.Martin, connect with flight to St.Barthelemy.

St. Lucia


This sleepy island looks more like Hawai'i than it does most of the Caribbean. Two cone-shaped mountains, Gros Piton and Petit Piton, are perched right next to each other on the southwestern coast, dominating the landscape.

Best beaches: Divers should check out Anse Ghastanet's Beach. For sunbathing, try instead Reduit Beach on the northern end of the island.

Hot Spot: Grosislet, a neighborhood on the northern end of the island, holds a street fair and jump-up (dance). Local vendors and restaurateurs sell their best dishes while tourists and locals mingle, eat and dance. When you're there, be sure to try the very tasty St.Lucian lager, Piton beer.

Best Trek: Gros Piton has a 2,619-foot climb to the summit, which should be taken with a guide. The St.Lucia National Trust can arrange for tours. Frigate Islands Nature Preserve, off St.Lucia's eastern coast, is home to the frigate – the magnificent bird that can be seen nesting and roosting from May to July. It is also the home to the boa constrictor, among other exotic creatures. There's another small preserve on the Maria Islands: Sulfur Springs, located in Soufriere at the southwestern part of the island, is a 7-acre site of volcanic craters filled with bubbling, sulfurous steam.

Best places to stay: Jalousie Plantation is a relatively new and controversial resort located between the Pitons. Environmentalists did not want the area between the two mountains developed. The luxurious individual cottages have their own plunge pool and all the modern amenities. Anse Chastenet, facing the Pitons, has a more casual atmosphere. All the rooms don't have modern amenities such as TVs, telephones or air-conditioning – but the do have incredible views.

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