The Perfect Places to Pucker

The Perfect Places to Pucker

A kiss is just a kiss? We suspected otherwise. Paula Begoun and Stephanie Bell base their ratings on the location's ambience, privacy, comfort, surrounding splendor. Following are those places that received the highly coveted “four lips” rating.

New England

Cathedral of the Pines, Rindge, N.H.: An extraordinary outdoor cathedral built on a hilltop with views of Mount Monadnock; the walls are the forest and the sky is the ceiling. Multifaith services are held at an outdoor altar.

Chillingsworth restaurant, Brewster, Mass: A romantic restaurant with outstanding five-course gourmet dinner. It has the feel of a private manor, brims with art and antiques, and is lit by candies and firplaces.

Norumbega, Camden, Maine: This inn is an elegant stone castle by the sea. King-size beds, antique furniture, and a fabulous ocean view make for regal romance.

New York City

The St.Regis Hotel: Reminiscent of a private mansion, albeit large at 350 rooms, this hotel oozes opulence. Each room has its own sitting area, a tremendous marble bathtub big enough for two, and Egyptian cotton sheets and down pillows on the bed.

Sign of the Dove: You'll feel as at home in black tie as you would in everyday garb at this elegant but eclectic restaurant. Fabulous food and four different rooms with different moods. The most romantic: The Music Room.

The Pacific Northwest: The Herb Farm, Fall City, Wash.: Parti restaurant, part herb garden, part gift and plant shop, the Herb Farm., 35 miles southwest of Seattle, is a gourmet's paradise in all its fragrant splendor. Reservations must be made six months in advance. 

Westwinds B&B: San Juan Island, Wash. The ultimate place to kiss in the Northwest, this wood-and-glass home sits at the top of a tree-laden hill, on the west site of San Juan Island. There are breathtaking views of the Olympic Mountains and the Strait of Juan de Fuca. The house is rented to only one couple at a time.

Strathcona Provincial Park, Vancouver Island, B.C.  Sheltered in the heart of Vancouver Island, Strathcona's legendary wilderness covers over 220 hectares. The park is blissfully isolated.

Perfect Place to Pucker. Photo by Elena.

Northern California

The Huntington Hotel, San Francisco. Originally built as a luxury apartment building, the hotel has 140 luxuriously appointed rooms, and a superbly gracious staff.

Chateau du Sureau, Oakhurst. An authentic French provincial country estate located 20 miles south of Yosemite. The wooded grounds have meandering stone walkways, fountains, and a s swimming pool. The rooms feature beautiful linens and stone fireplaces.

Southern California

Simpson House Inn, Santa-Barbara: A beautifully renovated Victorian mansion amidst sprawling oaks, flowering gardens, and manicured lawns. Each of its 13 guest rooms and 4 garden cottages is beautifully appointed. Included in the cost are breakfast and evening wine.

Two bunch palms: Desert Hot Springs. This is the pinnacle of tranquillity and self indulgence. Guests check into this plush. 44-villa spa for a few days of luxurious pampering. The grounds offer a swimming pool, tennis cours, and secluded rock grotto pools that are fed by mineral hot springs.

Hawai's

Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park: There is nothing like hot, bubbling lava, gurgling in its crater, erupting down the mountain and spilling into the cool sea, to inspire passion. Also, don't be surprised if the earth moves – rumbling earth is a normal part of life here. Free.

Holuloa Inn in Holuloa, Hawai'i: This three-story cedar inn stretches gracefully across the upper portion of a working cattle ranch and coffee farm. Enfolded by fig, papaya, and plumeria trees, the inn has breathtaking views of Kailua Bay and the Pacific. The best sport for kissing is the rooftop gazebo.

Kailua Plantation House, Kailua, Kona: A bed-and-breakfast with the luxury of a superior hotel, this two-story mansion is perched atop a black lava beach, offering exquisite views of the Pacific surf. All five guest rooms have spectacular views; some have their own Jacuzzis.

Pavillions at Seacliff, Kilauea, Kaui: A private home for rent, this is a complete retreat, usually for three couples. The 7 manicured acres boast unobstructed vistas of rolling surf, three ocean vie master suites, a blue-tiled pool, a tennis court, an exercise room, and a putting green.

Pohali Park Beach, Mana, Kaua'i: a 15-minute ride down a dirt road will bring you to this velvety sand beach under the sheer cliffs of the Napali coastline. At dusk you might even have it to yourselves.

Hotel Hana-Mau, Hana, Maui: Once owned by millionairess Carolyn Hunt, each of the hotel's 96 bungalows scattered over the Hana hillside feature plush furniture, large soaking tubs, and a private patio.

Banyan tree Restaurant, Kapalua, Maui: A casual restaurant with excellent Italian food. They serve lunch only, but the ocean views and tasty pasta cn inspire delicious kissing for dessert.

Cheap Reykjavík

Cheap Reykjavík

By Joanna Smith

I'm going to come right out and say this: If you are looking for a cheap holiday, you have come to the wrong city. Reykjavík consistently ranks as one of the most expensive cities in the world and, if you're visiting from Britain, you have the joys of the post-Brexit exchange rate, too.

But, all is not lost – you can find places worthy of splashing your cash that won't break the bank. But be warned: really, this should be called the “not too expensive guide to Reykjavík.” Because that's as close as it gets – looking at your receipt and saying, “oh, that's not too expensive... I guess.”

Drinking

Drinking is notoriously expensive in Reykjavík. I once bought a bottled beer that cost 7 pounds and considered it a bargain. However, if you are hankering for something to whet your whistle whilst keeping the costs down, then get wise to the city's happy hours. Every bar has one and if often halves the price of beer. Plus, if you are on holiday, there is no such thing as “unsociable hours” - every hour is beer o'clock.

Consider downloading the Grapevine's Appy Hour app, available for iPhone and Android, lovingly constructed to provide you with a guide to every happy hour in the city. You are welcome.

Eating

Kaffi Vynil is a great place of a “not too expensive meal”: you can get a delectable vegan dish, whilst listening to records and taking in the uber cool vibe. Alternatively, the tiny ramen restaurant Momo Ramen, is the perfect place to slurp up a huge bowl of Japan's favorite dish. With its bar seating against the windows. It's also the perfect place for the cheapest of passtimes: people-watching.

A nice waterfalls. Photo by Olga

If you are craving the warmth of Iceland's everlasting summer sun then take a stroll along the harbor with a hot dog from one of the hot dog stands, and for dessert head to Iceland's finest ice cream parlour, Valdis. Gather up all those krona coins, because both a hot dog and a single scoop come at a rather inexpensive price. Now that's a bargain.

Nobody likes cooking whilst they're on holiday, but it's definitely the most frugal option when it comes to sustenance. Bonus is by far one of the cheapest supermarkets in Reykjavík. Sure, the pig logo may be super creepy, but it's just really excited about saving your dollars. One more point: Whatever you do, don't shop at 10-11. Trust me.

Activities

You don't have to spend a crazy amount on tours to get a taste of Iceland. Hire a car from Sad Cars: They may not be pretty, but who need hubcaps? Split the cost with others and drive the Golden Circle yourselves – it's much cheaper, and you're at liberty to alter your itinerary however you want. Plus you won't end up next to the loud snorer on the way home (you know who you are).

If you are looking for some cheap-ass culture (the best kind of culture), many of Reykjavík's art galleries are free to enter. Listastofan, 18 and the Marshall House, for example, all boast exhibitions that will satisfy the artiest of cravings. Once you're done with the highbrow stuff, head to Freddi Arcade. For a little fee, you can spend an hour appeasing your inner child on Pac-Man or Mortal Combat. You can even bring in your own beer. Flawless victory.

So there you have it, Reykjavík can be affordable if you are smart about it. Take it from me: you don't need to be a millionaire to have a great time, although if you can make friends with a millionaire while you are here, that would really help.

My Private Hawai'i

My Private Hawai'i

Susanna Moore, who grew up in Honolulu, wrote lyrical novels about the Hawai'i of her childhood, filled with island mythology, colors, and scents. Her Hawai'ian Trilogy includes: My Old Sweetheart, The Whiteness of Bones, and Sleeping Beauties (published by Knopf). Some of her favorite off-the-beaten-track places:

The Academy of Art, 900 S. Beretania St. Honolulu: A small, light-filled museum built around several courtyards, with an especially ravishing collection of Japanese art. “My father, who is a doctor, used to leave me there in the hot, hot afternoons, while he made his rounds.”

The Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum 1525 Bernice St., Honolulu : One of the childhood places most loved, most visited, perhaps because it was there that I first literally discovered who I was and, thanks to the walls of ethnographic and geographic maps and charts, where I was.

Broke the Mouth Cafe: 1148 Bishop St., Honolulu: The best local food in the islands (there is another in Hilo, Hawai'i). The name is Pidgin English for food so good that the mouth breaks with joy, and overuse. Like Pidgin itself, the food is a combination of cultures – Chinese, Hawai'ian, Portuguese, Japanese.

Halawa Valley: The easternmost point of Moloka'i, island of sorcery. There are two waterfalls at the back of the valley with sacred bathing pools of ice-cold water.

Hana: The loveliest, most Hawai'ian town in the islands. It is a verdant, tropical, and the place of many old legends.

Palm tree. Photo by Elena.

Hanakapa'ai: It begins at Haena on the island of Kaua'i. It is a narrow, difficult trail along the treacherous Napali Coast, mountains on the side, ocean on the other. During the rainy season (early spring), it is dangerous. It once took me four hours to crawl on my hands and knees in the rain the last half-mile.

Hanapepe: This sleepy farm town on Kaua'i sits at the mouth of a muddy river that flows through a narrow valley of taro patches and vegetable farms. There is a great bar and a general store selling rubber fishing shoes and preserved mango seed.

Hilo:A small town on the slopes of Mauna Kea on the Big Island known for its beautiful bay and orchids. It is the place where those interested in preserving the best of Hawai'i seem to settle.

The Kawaikoi Stream: In the mountains of Koke'e on Kaua'i, the trail winds along the bank of a stream, through stands of bamboo, cedar, wild ginger, orchids, and ferns. It is the most romantic, most perfect walk in Hawai'i.

Polihale: A mile-long state beach at the westernmost end of Kaua'i. To reach it, you drive through ranchland and dense cane fields. The water can be very dangerous. The sand is so hot that you must wear shoes to walk from the keawe groves to the water's edge. At the north end, where I like to swim, are big sea turtles and sometimes sharks, perhaps because it is the ancient site of an heiau for the dead, where bodies once were thrown from the rocks into the sea below.

West Iceland

West Iceland

West Iceland is slowly replacing the capital area as a tourist destination. It is usually possible to drive all over West Iceland all year, although weather and road conditions should be checked first before setting off, especially in winter. Some places are closed over the winter but it is possible to get information from the Tourist Information centres or on the website www.west.is.

The landscape is varied with glaciers, rivers, waterfalls, lava fields and beautiful beaches. Many of the Icelandic sagas occurred in West Iceland and Snorri Sturluson (1179-1241), the renowned Icelandic historian lived and worked in West Iceland. It is rightfully called SAGALAND. It is well worth staying in West Iceland, giving enough time to experience the area and to learn about the sagas.

The main pearls of West Iceland are:

Deildartunguhver, the most powerful hot spring in Europe. Hot enough to burn, so be careful. Smell the sulphur, feel the energy.

Hraunfossar, glacial river seeping out through the lava into the beautiful Hvítá creating a unique waterfall.

Langjökull, second largest glacier in Iceland. Can be seen for miles on a clear day.

Grábrók, a volcanic crater you can walk up and look into. Close to Road 1.

Djúpalónssandur, a beautiful lava beach with dangerous waves.

The hidden pearls of west Iceland are scattered all over the region. Here are some of them.

1 Gljúfrasteinn, the home of Nobel Prize winner Halldór Laxness, is located in the Mosfellsdalur Valley only 20 minutes’ drive from Reykjavík. This beautiful home and garden are now a museum dedicated to the author and his life works. Gljúfrasteinn provides an opportunity to experience part of Laxness’ world and his source of inspiration. Weekly musical concerts are held here during the summer.

2 Akranes was the first place to show signs of becoming an Icelandic fishing village when Bishop Brynjólfur from Skálholt started fishing in 1650 and sold fish products to Europe. In this way he acquired revenue to run the Skálholt School and thus kept education going within the country. Akranes is still a flourishing fishing village today. In the town centre there is a memorial by Marteinn Guðmundsson commemorating local fishermen who drowned at sea. There is a good 18-hole golf course which has produced a number of professional golfers. There are two lighthouses in Akranes which are possible to visit. An information centre is housed in one of them. They were built in 1918 and 1944 respectively. A variety of cultural events such as musical concerts and art exhibitions are held in the newer lighthouse. The museum at Garðar consists of a collection of old houses and boats, which gives a good insight into ancient times. It is possible to book a private concert with a tuneful family, Travel Tunes Iceland, in one of the old houses or in the lighthouse.

3 Hvanneyri is a small rural settlement of 270 inhabitants which is interesting to visit. The Agricultural School has been operating since 1898 and the Agricultural Museum has a great collection of farming equipment from the last century. Ullarselið is a shop selling high quality woollen products as well as Icelandic handcrafts. There is a pretty little church built in 1905 with a very special altar. This area is a protected nesting area for Greater White-fronted Geese which are prominent in the surrounding fields during spring and autumn.

4 Fossatún gives you an opportunity to meet Grýla, the fearsome mother of the 13 yule lads. A walk around the area reveals many trolls and troll games. Visit the restaurant and listen to old vinyl records while you watch salmon jumping up the Troll waterfall.

5 Reykholt is one of the most notable historical places of Iceland where Snorri Sturluson (1206 -1242) dwelt. The ancient Snorralaug is said to have been the pool in which Snorri relaxed and rested from his writing. There is a cultural centre and a lively music tradition at Reykholt.

Icelandic Hills and river. Photo by Olga

6 Húsafell is the pearl between the lava and the glacier. It was among the first rural tourist services and today, there is a hotel, summer houses, swimming pool, 9-hole golf course and marked walking trails. Húsafell is also the departure point for trips to the ice cave on Langjökull glacier. Páll from Húsafell is a famous artist who has his workshop in Húsafell. His stone artwork can be found all over the area, as well as in the little church which was built in 1973 and can seat up to 70 people.

7 Víðgelmir is the biggest cave in Iceland and one of the biggest lava caves in the world. The cave has been protected since 1993. Cave tours are offered from Fljótstunga.

8 Borgarnes is the setting for Egil’s Saga. The Settlement Centre has modern exhibits and displays, depicting Egil‘s Saga and other sagas of Iceland in many different languages. The Safnahúsið in Borgarnes has a very interesting exhibition called Börn í 100 ár (Children over 100 years) as well as a display of Icelandic birds. The Tourist Information Centre provides good information on what is offered in West Iceland.

9 Gerðuberg, just off Road 54, is a magnificent basalt column wall about 3m high. At the base, there is an old sheep pen which provides an excellent site for a picnic with a wonderful view.

10 Ytri-Tunga is the home of a seal colony where seals can be viewed swimming in the sea or just basking on the rocks in June and July.

11 Búðir is a former trading station which is now a fine hotel. The beautiful little church close by is a popular place to get married in.

12 Arnarstapi, a beautiful area at the foot of the Snæfellsjökull glacier. It is a lively fishing harbour and also a popular tourist destination with a camping site, guest houses and restaurants. The great stone statue of Bárður

Snæfellsás by the sculptor Ragnar Kjartansson, is an iconic feature of the area. Legend has it that Bárður is descended from trolls. There is a lovely easy walk between Arnarstapi and Hellnar through a beautiful coastal lava field.

13 Malarrif, is a 20m high lighthouse built in 1946. It has been declared a protected site. The Visitor’s Centre for the Snæfellsnes National Park provides information on the nature and culture of the area.

14 Vatnshellir is a lava cave about 200m long and 35m deep. It is a big, wide cave and guided tours are offered every hour. It is necessary to be warmly dressed as it is cold in the cave.

15 Saxhóll is a crater which has an easy walking trail to the top with the reward of a panoramic view of the National Park.

16 Öndverðarnes is an area of absolute peace and tranquility. The little lighthouse was built in 1973. It was a busy fishing area until 1945 and relics from this time can still be seen.

17 Rif is a little fishing village of 155 residents. Strange but true, there is a lively, creative theatre called The Freezer operating in a disused fish factory. Innovative plays about the area and its history, created by the owner, have shot this little theatre into the limelight. The Freezer also has a coffee shop and an artists’ residency.

18 Grundarfjörður is home to the famous Mt. Kirkjufell. This pretty little fishing village is the centre for whale watching tours on Snæfellsnes as well as where the Storyteller’s Lodge is located. The Lodge is only open for group bookings. Grundarfjörður boasts a wide range of varied accommodation and restaurants.

19 Bjarnarhöfn is a shark farm and private museum depicting the history, hunting and processing of shark. The museum is filled with shark hunting paraphernalia and memorabilia from a family history of shark hunters. The little church on the farm is dated 1857, the altar is from Holland, painted in the time of Rembrandt.

20 Stykkishólmur is a charming town with beautifully maintained old houses. It has an industrious harbour where boat trips around Breiðarfjörður are offered as well as the ferry Baldur to Flatey island and Brjánslækur in the West Fjords. If you are interested in seeing the interplay of light, glass and water from every glacier in Iceland, then the Museum of Water is the place to go. If volcanoes excite you more, visit the Volcano Museum. There is a good camping site, accommodation and restaurants in the town.

21 Flatey is a peaceful island where time stands still. There are many beautiful old houses on the island as well as a hotel and restaurant. There is also rich birdlife on the island. The Flatey Church dates back to 1926 and is decorated by Baltasar Samper, a famous painter and father of renowned film director, Baltasar Kormákur. The altarpiece shows a picture of Christ with fishermen at the Flatey harbour. Christ is wearing an Icelandic woollen jumper, the ‘lopapeysa’ and bears an uncanny resemblance to the artist himself. Flatey was the biggest cultural centre in Iceland in the mid-19th century. The ferry Baldur sails from Stykkishólmur to Brjánslækur, stopping at Flatey twice a day in the summer months.

22 Erpsstaðir, a small dairy farm boasting the best ice-cream in Iceland. What is better than tasting dairy products straight from the farm on the farm?

23 Búðardalur is a small village with 260 inhabitants. It is known for its major cheese production, especially the famous Dala Brie and Dala Yrja cheeses. The Leifsbúð Culture Centre at the harbour hosts a coffee house and an exhibition dedicated to the voyages of discovery made by Erikthe-Red and his son, Leif-the-Lucky. There is a model of the Vínlandrefill tapestry which tells the story of Leif in Vínland (Newfoundland).

24 In Ólafsdalur there is a stately old school house dated 1896, which was the first agricultural school in Iceland. In the summer, a coffee house is open at the school and there are marked walking trails around this beautiful area.

Iceland West Fjords

Iceland West Fjords

The West Fjords are characterised by high mountains, peaceful fjords and friendly villages. It is important to note that there are many gravel roads in the area but Road 61 to Ísafjörður, the biggest town, is tarred. It is essential to check weather and road conditions before setting off for the west fjords during winter. Some places are closed during winter but it is possible to get information from the information centres or at www.westfjords.is.

Látrabjarg, A a wonderful, puffin-laden cliff, is the main pearl of the West Fjords, but there are many hidden pearls in this area.

Brjánslækur is the departure port to Stykkishólmur with the ferry Baldur. Surtarbrandsgil, close by, is one of the most remarkable plant fossil areas of Iceland, declared a protected nature area in 1975. An exhibition of stone fossils from the ravine can be seen in the old vicarage.

Rauðisandur is a 10km long beach characterised by colourful beach sand. The colours can range from yellow, red and even black, depending on the brightness of the day. A coffee shop is open here during the summer. The Road 614 to Rauðisandur is a steep gravel road and a detour from the main route.

The Icelandic Sea Monster Museum is located in Bíldudalur. Stories of monsters have been around in Iceland for centuries, but now you can get to know them better at this museum.

Dynjandi is the greatest waterfall in the West Fjords. The waterfall and surrounding area was declared a protected natural site in 1981.

Ósvör Maritime Museum is a replica of the old fishing station from the 19th century and shows very well how fisherman lived and worked in those times.

Icelandic waters. Photo by Olga

Ísafjörður is the biggest town in the West Fjords with a population of 2600. There are very many quaint old houses in the old part of town, amongst them, the very interesting Maritime Museum. Nature and cultural walks are offered (isafjordurguide.is). The church is very special with its architectural form symbolising the waves of the ocean. During Easter in 2007, the inhabitants gathered together and made 750 clay doves which now decorate еhe altar wall which is 90m2. The work is named Birds of Heaven. A short distance from the church is a memorial dedicated to seamen. Thriving tourist services and activities are on offer, including boat trips to Vigur Island.

A visit to the little island of Vigur is like an adventure where the smallest post office in Iceland and the only corn mill in the country exist. There is also a beautiful old farmhouse where homemade bread and coffee are offered.

Hundreds of puffins, eider ducks and arctic terns are to be found here. Stay on the path to avoid falling into puffin nesting burrows. During the summer, boat trips are also offered to the island of Vigur from Ísafjörður.

Súðavík is a small fishing village with about 150 inhabitants. In 1995 an avalanche in the town killed 14 people. There is a beautiful memorial enclosure commemorating those who died.

The Arctic Fox Centre is a research centre focussing on the arctic fox, the only indigenous animal in Iceland.

Heydalur is an environmentallyfriendly tourist service run by one family. Various activities such as horse riding, walking tours, fishing, and kayak trips are on offer as well as being able to lie in a natural hot tub or the swimming pool. There is rich bird and plant life in the area and wonderful information boards along the walking trails.

Krossneslaug is a small swimming pool on the seashore of the North Atlantic Ocean. While lounging in the pool you might very well see a seal or two swimming close by.

Djúpavík was bursting with life from 1935-1954 when a herring factory was operated in the biggest concrete building in Iceland. Today, this building is used to house an exhibition of the herring years as well as various other events, such as the famous free concert of Sigur Rós in 2006. The only inhabitants today are a family who run the hotel there.

The Museum of Icelandic Sorcery and Witchcraft is situated in Hólmavík. This area has been associated with witchcraft since the 17th century and the museum does a wonderful job in bringing this history to life, as does the Sorcerer’s Cottage at the farm Klúka in Bjarnafjörður about 20 minutes’ drive from Hólmavík. There is also an outdoor swimming pool as well as a natural hot pool.

The Sheep Farming Museum is a fun stop for people of all ages. There are various events and displays as well as handcrafts and a coffee shop.