West Iceland

West Iceland

West Iceland is slowly replacing the capital area as a tourist destination. It is usually possible to drive all over West Iceland all year, although weather and road conditions should be checked first before setting off, especially in winter. Some places are closed over the winter but it is possible to get information from the Tourist Information centres or on the website www.west.is.

The landscape is varied with glaciers, rivers, waterfalls, lava fields and beautiful beaches. Many of the Icelandic sagas occurred in West Iceland and Snorri Sturluson (1179-1241), the renowned Icelandic historian lived and worked in West Iceland. It is rightfully called SAGALAND. It is well worth staying in West Iceland, giving enough time to experience the area and to learn about the sagas.

The main pearls of West Iceland are:

Deildartunguhver, the most powerful hot spring in Europe. Hot enough to burn, so be careful. Smell the sulphur, feel the energy.

Hraunfossar, glacial river seeping out through the lava into the beautiful Hvítá creating a unique waterfall.

Langjökull, second largest glacier in Iceland. Can be seen for miles on a clear day.

Grábrók, a volcanic crater you can walk up and look into. Close to Road 1.

Djúpalónssandur, a beautiful lava beach with dangerous waves.

The hidden pearls of west Iceland are scattered all over the region. Here are some of them.

1 Gljúfrasteinn, the home of Nobel Prize winner Halldór Laxness, is located in the Mosfellsdalur Valley only 20 minutes’ drive from Reykjavík. This beautiful home and garden are now a museum dedicated to the author and his life works. Gljúfrasteinn provides an opportunity to experience part of Laxness’ world and his source of inspiration. Weekly musical concerts are held here during the summer.

2 Akranes was the first place to show signs of becoming an Icelandic fishing village when Bishop Brynjólfur from Skálholt started fishing in 1650 and sold fish products to Europe. In this way he acquired revenue to run the Skálholt School and thus kept education going within the country. Akranes is still a flourishing fishing village today. In the town centre there is a memorial by Marteinn Guðmundsson commemorating local fishermen who drowned at sea. There is a good 18-hole golf course which has produced a number of professional golfers. There are two lighthouses in Akranes which are possible to visit. An information centre is housed in one of them. They were built in 1918 and 1944 respectively. A variety of cultural events such as musical concerts and art exhibitions are held in the newer lighthouse. The museum at Garðar consists of a collection of old houses and boats, which gives a good insight into ancient times. It is possible to book a private concert with a tuneful family, Travel Tunes Iceland, in one of the old houses or in the lighthouse.

3 Hvanneyri is a small rural settlement of 270 inhabitants which is interesting to visit. The Agricultural School has been operating since 1898 and the Agricultural Museum has a great collection of farming equipment from the last century. Ullarselið is a shop selling high quality woollen products as well as Icelandic handcrafts. There is a pretty little church built in 1905 with a very special altar. This area is a protected nesting area for Greater White-fronted Geese which are prominent in the surrounding fields during spring and autumn.

4 Fossatún gives you an opportunity to meet Grýla, the fearsome mother of the 13 yule lads. A walk around the area reveals many trolls and troll games. Visit the restaurant and listen to old vinyl records while you watch salmon jumping up the Troll waterfall.

5 Reykholt is one of the most notable historical places of Iceland where Snorri Sturluson (1206 -1242) dwelt. The ancient Snorralaug is said to have been the pool in which Snorri relaxed and rested from his writing. There is a cultural centre and a lively music tradition at Reykholt.

Icelandic Hills and river. Photo by Olga

6 Húsafell is the pearl between the lava and the glacier. It was among the first rural tourist services and today, there is a hotel, summer houses, swimming pool, 9-hole golf course and marked walking trails. Húsafell is also the departure point for trips to the ice cave on Langjökull glacier. Páll from Húsafell is a famous artist who has his workshop in Húsafell. His stone artwork can be found all over the area, as well as in the little church which was built in 1973 and can seat up to 70 people.

7 Víðgelmir is the biggest cave in Iceland and one of the biggest lava caves in the world. The cave has been protected since 1993. Cave tours are offered from Fljótstunga.

8 Borgarnes is the setting for Egil’s Saga. The Settlement Centre has modern exhibits and displays, depicting Egil‘s Saga and other sagas of Iceland in many different languages. The Safnahúsið in Borgarnes has a very interesting exhibition called Börn í 100 ár (Children over 100 years) as well as a display of Icelandic birds. The Tourist Information Centre provides good information on what is offered in West Iceland.

9 Gerðuberg, just off Road 54, is a magnificent basalt column wall about 3m high. At the base, there is an old sheep pen which provides an excellent site for a picnic with a wonderful view.

10 Ytri-Tunga is the home of a seal colony where seals can be viewed swimming in the sea or just basking on the rocks in June and July.

11 Búðir is a former trading station which is now a fine hotel. The beautiful little church close by is a popular place to get married in.

12 Arnarstapi, a beautiful area at the foot of the Snæfellsjökull glacier. It is a lively fishing harbour and also a popular tourist destination with a camping site, guest houses and restaurants. The great stone statue of Bárður

Snæfellsás by the sculptor Ragnar Kjartansson, is an iconic feature of the area. Legend has it that Bárður is descended from trolls. There is a lovely easy walk between Arnarstapi and Hellnar through a beautiful coastal lava field.

13 Malarrif, is a 20m high lighthouse built in 1946. It has been declared a protected site. The Visitor’s Centre for the Snæfellsnes National Park provides information on the nature and culture of the area.

14 Vatnshellir is a lava cave about 200m long and 35m deep. It is a big, wide cave and guided tours are offered every hour. It is necessary to be warmly dressed as it is cold in the cave.

15 Saxhóll is a crater which has an easy walking trail to the top with the reward of a panoramic view of the National Park.

16 Öndverðarnes is an area of absolute peace and tranquility. The little lighthouse was built in 1973. It was a busy fishing area until 1945 and relics from this time can still be seen.

17 Rif is a little fishing village of 155 residents. Strange but true, there is a lively, creative theatre called The Freezer operating in a disused fish factory. Innovative plays about the area and its history, created by the owner, have shot this little theatre into the limelight. The Freezer also has a coffee shop and an artists’ residency.

18 Grundarfjörður is home to the famous Mt. Kirkjufell. This pretty little fishing village is the centre for whale watching tours on Snæfellsnes as well as where the Storyteller’s Lodge is located. The Lodge is only open for group bookings. Grundarfjörður boasts a wide range of varied accommodation and restaurants.

19 Bjarnarhöfn is a shark farm and private museum depicting the history, hunting and processing of shark. The museum is filled with shark hunting paraphernalia and memorabilia from a family history of shark hunters. The little church on the farm is dated 1857, the altar is from Holland, painted in the time of Rembrandt.

20 Stykkishólmur is a charming town with beautifully maintained old houses. It has an industrious harbour where boat trips around Breiðarfjörður are offered as well as the ferry Baldur to Flatey island and Brjánslækur in the West Fjords. If you are interested in seeing the interplay of light, glass and water from every glacier in Iceland, then the Museum of Water is the place to go. If volcanoes excite you more, visit the Volcano Museum. There is a good camping site, accommodation and restaurants in the town.

21 Flatey is a peaceful island where time stands still. There are many beautiful old houses on the island as well as a hotel and restaurant. There is also rich birdlife on the island. The Flatey Church dates back to 1926 and is decorated by Baltasar Samper, a famous painter and father of renowned film director, Baltasar Kormákur. The altarpiece shows a picture of Christ with fishermen at the Flatey harbour. Christ is wearing an Icelandic woollen jumper, the ‘lopapeysa’ and bears an uncanny resemblance to the artist himself. Flatey was the biggest cultural centre in Iceland in the mid-19th century. The ferry Baldur sails from Stykkishólmur to Brjánslækur, stopping at Flatey twice a day in the summer months.

22 Erpsstaðir, a small dairy farm boasting the best ice-cream in Iceland. What is better than tasting dairy products straight from the farm on the farm?

23 Búðardalur is a small village with 260 inhabitants. It is known for its major cheese production, especially the famous Dala Brie and Dala Yrja cheeses. The Leifsbúð Culture Centre at the harbour hosts a coffee house and an exhibition dedicated to the voyages of discovery made by Erikthe-Red and his son, Leif-the-Lucky. There is a model of the Vínlandrefill tapestry which tells the story of Leif in Vínland (Newfoundland).

24 In Ólafsdalur there is a stately old school house dated 1896, which was the first agricultural school in Iceland. In the summer, a coffee house is open at the school and there are marked walking trails around this beautiful area.