North West Iceland

North West Iceland

North west Iceland is a part of the country that Icelanders themselves are discovering more and more.

This area is the setting for many Icelandic sagas, the most important of which is the saga of Grettir-The-Strong. North west Iceland is also the setting for the book Burial Rites by the Australian writer, Hanna Kent, which was published in 2014.

This is an historical novel based on the famous murder case in 1828 of Agnes and Friðrik. They were condemned to death for murder and were the last culprits to be executed in Iceland. The book has enjoyed much popularity worldwide.

Please note that there are quite a few gravel roads in this area, e.g. Road 711 around Vatnsnes peninsula. Over the winter months, it is essential to check weather and road conditions before setting off on your journey. Some places are closed over the winter but it is possible to get information from the information centres or on the website www.northiceland.is

Countless natural wonders can be found all over this area, such as Hvítserkur A, the troll of the Northwest rising proudly from the ocean waves and Kolugljúfur B, a magnificent gorge and waterfall named after a troll called Kola.

The hidden pearls are:

1Hvammstangi is the first stop around the Vatnsnes peninsula coming from the south, only 197 km from Reykjavík. This is a charming little village with 550 inhabitants and the biggest seal colony in Iceland. The Icelandic Seal Centre has a very interesting exhibition on seals, their biology and co-existence with humans. Seal watching tours are offered from Hvammstangi.

It is easy to forget oneself in the Bardúsa Gallery which is a shop and museum selling quality souvenirs. Kidka is one of the biggest wool factories in Iceland where it is possible to buy top quality fashionable woollen clothes.

Icelandic Geysers. Photo by Olga

Other tourist services in Hvammstangi include guesthouses, good restaurants, a sheltered camping site and a swimming pool.

2 Illugastaðir is the setting for Burial Rites, which was mentioned earlier. It is an excellent location for seal watching.

On most days of the year, seals can be seen swimming or just lounging on the skerries close to land. There is a good camping site at Illugastaðir with facilities for camper vans.

3 Geitafell is a perfect stop for the hungry on Vatnsnes. It offers fresh seafood on the menu with a deilicious fish soup topping the list. A countryside surprise.

4 Borgarvirki, also known as The Citadel is a volcanic plug that was used by the Vikings as a fortress during

times of strife. A wonderful view from the top at 177m, but it is not an easy walk. Be careful.

The entire central part of Iceland is uninhabited highlands, with unbound glacial rivers, black sands and the hardy arctic flora. This region has long been a barrier for travellers between the north and south. Two main roads lie across the highlands. The shorter and easier one, Kjölur, runs between the glaciers Langjökull and Hofsjökull while the more demanding one, Sprengisandur, lies between Hofsjökull and Vatnajökull. In earlier times those roads were said to be severely haunted by the ghosts of people that were lost on the way.

The highland roads have improved much but are still only open in summer to well equipped vehicles, since they run through rough terrain and over unbridged rivers. Although the nature and travelling conditions of the highlands are rough, the area contains many wonderful sites, such as the hot springs and natural baths at Landmannalaugar and Herðubreiðarlindir.

5 Þingeyrarkirkja is an impressive ancient stone church which gives a sense of grandeur to the area. It took thirteen years to build, using unusual methods which are attributed to its pristine condition still today. The interior of the church is no less grand with valuable artifacts and features.

6 Spákonuhof in Skagaströnd is the Museum of Prophecies where futures, pasts and presents come together. Focusing on Þórdís, the famous soothsayer and first inhabitant of the area, this museum is full of surprises, both for adults and children. The Árnes Museum is the oldest house in Skagaströnd and depicts the living conditions of early 20th century. Skagaströnd Golf Course is a 9–hole course with spectacular views over the fjord.

7 Reykir, a campsite with a difference. It is host to a seaside hot tub (about 40°C) called Grettislaug. A remote location with superb views of surrounding mountains and the ocean. It is also the place from which the boat tours to Drangey Island depart. Drangey Island, just off the Skagaströnd coast, is a birdwatcher‘s paradise as it is the nesting colony for a wide variety of birds, the main star being the puffin. Drangey island also served as a place of refuge for the longest-surviving Icelandic outlaw, Grettir-The-Strong.

8 Glaumbær farm and museum offers a wonderful opportunity to experience conditions in a turf home and gain insight into the harsh living conditions of Icelanders in the past. Besides the turf farmhouse dating back to the mid 18th century, there are also two 19th century timber houses which are good examples of the first timber houses built in the area.

9 Hólar in Hjaltadalur was the centre of religion and education for centuries, and is one of two Episcopal seats in Iceland. Today, it is home to the oldest stone cathedral in the country, a university college and a thriving tourism service.

10 Hofsós is a quaint little village with 146 inhabitants. It is one of the oldest trading centres in Iceland and boasts a visible heritage in its renovated buildings. Vesturfarasetrið is the Icelandic Emigration Centre which has information on the Icelandic diaspora to America. The Hofsós swimming pool could be seen as the forerunner to the infinity pool, situated on a hilltop with magnificent views over the ocean, you can be forgiven for being awestruck.

11 Siglufjörður in North Iceland has 1200 inhabitants and was the capital of herring fishing up to the late 60’s. These glory days have been immortalized in an impressive award winning museum called The Herring Era Museum, which is housed in five historical buildings and occupies a large part of town. The magnificent luxurious Sigló Hotel dominates the waterfront and together with two popular restaurants, Hannes Boy and Kaffi Rauðka, form a colourful backdrop to the marina village, which is a popular outdoor area in the summer.